Keenan’s
Even though our stint in Bellingham was only five years,
this little college town in Washington holds a special place in our hearts. We
moved there so that I could pursue my graduate degrees, but the friendly,
outdoorsy, and eclectic Bellingham ended up becoming “home” to us very quickly,
and we’ve missed it ever since. This is why we make a special effort to weekend
trip there each year, but even if we’d never lived there, I think we’d still
find ourselves visiting often. Bellingham is so beautiful. Even though it’s
only about an hour and a half from Seattle, it feels like you’re very far away.
The pace of life is so much slower, and the people are so much friendlier. It has
all the lovely qualities of a small town, without the lack of culture one
normally associates with small towns. Bellingham has a bustling art scene and
the Bellingham culinary world offers something for everyone, but they
specialize in locally sourced cuisine.
If you find yourself in Bellingham for an evening or a long
weekend, I highly recommend that you visit Keenan’s at the Pier. Located within
The Chrysalis hotel in Fairhaven on the South side of Bellingham, the
restaurant has sweeping views of the bay. In good weather, you can grab a seat
on their patio… heaters and throws provided for those chillier but sunny
Northwest evenings. They have an amazing happy hour, which you can take inside
the bar, or in the hotel’s “lobby” which they call the Living Room, and for
good reason. Complete with a beautiful two-sided fireplace (which is also a
warm feature in the bar), the Living Room has comfortable seating, such as cushy
chairs and tables where you can spread out a game of cards, or a copy of The Bellingham Herald, while you enjoy
the views with your cup of coffee or Manhattan.
We found our way to the bar for the tail end of happy hour
on a rainy January evening, snagging a cozy table in a quiet corner of the bar.
Yielding to the recommendation of the bartender, Ryan ordered a special
Manhattan made with orange flavored bitters and a generous orange garnish. I
opted for their Faire la Fete Brut Rosé from Limoux, France, because some
nights just call for bubbly. To nosh on while we chatted about our work weeks,
we split the Hummus Platter, which came with an array of crisp, colorful
crudité, toasted pita triangles, and a lemony, garlicky, but perfectly balanced
creamy hummus. We were also tempted by the Toasted Walnuts, which were roasted
and served warm, the heat bringing out their rich nuttiness.
After an hour or two of lingering over our drinks in the
bar, we eventually moved into the dining room. We were ushered to a corner
table with a lovely view—though no table is without a view at Keenan’s. Keenan’s
features fresh, local Northwest cuisine. As you walk in the restaurant, the
chalk board advertises the sources of their ingredients for that week. This week’s
list included Pangea Ferments, Foothills Farm, and BelleWood Acres. Ryan
started with a half-sized caesar, while I went for the beet salad (sans
chevre). We were grateful the server nudged us toward half-sized salads as they
were generous in portion and the full salad would have been too much. My beet
salad had a fantastic shallot vinaigrette that had a hint of sweetness to
counter the onion-pungency of the shallots. The spiced pecans sprinkled on top
were to die for. Ryan’s main was the Wagyu beef tenderloin, served with wilted
spinach and Yukon gold mashed potatoes, while I went for the chef-created soup
special, a Tuscan white bean and spinach puree. Every bite of dinner was
savored, and our server found that careful balance of attentiveness and knowing
when to leave us be so we could enjoy a romantic meal.
The next morning, we ordered soy lattes and breakfast to go.
Not much of an early morning eater, I went for a beautiful plate of crudité
and, true-to-form, Ryan opted for huevos rancheros. His eggs came atop
tortillas and covered with a spicy ranchero sauce that smelled of cumin, and a
coriander lime sour cream sauce. In the past, we have also ordered their
oatmeal, eggs benedict, and The Owner’s Breakfast, without the egg for me. No
breakfast dish has disappointed! And, the key to any breakfast is serving it
piping hot, which has always been true for Keenan’s.
The Inn
If you happen to stay overnight in Bellingham, you simply
must stay at The Chrysalis Inn and Spa. The hotel is so very Northwest with its
beautiful woodwork and slate floors. Each room has a built in window seat with
a full or side view of the bay. The window seat can double as an extra bed,
which my sister always claims as her spot when we visit for our annual girls’
trip with mom. Each room also has a fire place and a soaker tub. Deanna, one of
the welcoming front desk employees, upgraded us to a full view suite, so our
room had a little living room set apart from the bedroom, and a kitchenette
with a bar. The restaurant is family-run, so every employee greets you with a
smile and makes an effort to get to know you. John, also at the front desk,
always remembers details from my previous visit, making me feel right at home
during my stay. And then there’s Roscoe, the hotel’s resident (hypoallergenic) dog,
who is so well-behaved blends in so well with his surroundings that you might
not know he’s there, until he drops a toy at your feet expectantly.
The Spa
Though we didn’t visit the Chrysalis Spa this time, it is a
luxurious facility with a generously sized relaxation sitting area, overlooking
a bubbling waterfall, and spacious, well-appointed locker rooms, complete with
eucalyptus steam rooms. I have indulged in a wide variety of the spa’s
offerings, including mani/pedis, wraps, facials, and massage. Every treatment
was completed by a consummate professional who left me feeling relaxed and
rejuvenated. The best part is, you can trot down from your room in one of the
provided plush robes! No one will even bat an eye as you traipse through the lobby
in your robe and flip flops. It’s Bellingham and the Northwest, after all. As
my shoulders tense from typing up this review, I realize I am remise to have
missed out on a massage during our stay. The spa will definitely be a stop on
our next trip!
The Woods
If you get the chance to wander down the dock and hop on the
trail heading toward town, you’ll find yourself at Boulevard Park and The Woods
Coffee. This is one of Bellingham’s best known secrets. A local coffee chain
specializing in locally roasted coffee, in Bellingham spirit, this family-run
business is a huge supporter of local charities. Order a Redwood (20 oz.) or
Giant Redwood (24 oz.) almond milk latte and grab a window seat. There is
additional seating on a second floor, but our favorite spots are one of the
tables by the front counter with a corner view of the bay, or one of the four
cozy leather chairs that face the fireplace. During my graduate school years, I
spent many long hours reading textbooks and writing research papers while
gazing out at the mesmerizing bay. Truly, this is the most special coffee shop
I’ve ever visited, which says a lot. One of our favorite travel activities is
finding a local coffee shop… so I’ve been to some of the best of the best and the
Boulevard Woods does not disappoint.
