If I were to sum up my perfect winter day, it would involve exploring a new city, hand in hand with Ryan, eating great food, enjoying some cocktails and bubbly, and doing a bit of shopping. But recently, I wasn't just daydreaming about this perfect winter day, I was living it.
Old Town Lucerne (Luzern)
Lucerne, Switzerland is truly one of Europe's hidden gems. Located only an hour's train ride from Zurich, it is easily accessible, but you feel like you're far away in the Swiss Alps. Like the day we spent in Salzburg last year, Lucerne is a bit like walking into a snowglobe come to life. As you step outside the train station and that crisp cold air shocks your lungs, because the cold just feels colder in Europe, you stop to catch your breath, not at the shocking chill, but at the gorgeous city that lay before you. In the foreground you'll see a series of bridges spanning the river Ruess, one of which is Lucerne's famous Kappelbrucke, literally translated to Chapel Bridge, which is the oldest wood covered bridge in Europe, and the world's oldest surviving truss bridge dating all the way back to 1330. (Quick shout out to Mr. Rice, my 6th grade teacher, and the reason why I know what a "truss bridge" is!) In the background you'll see the tallest of the nine towers that are part of the famous Musegg Wall, a literal wall that surrounded the city preserved from the 14th Century.
Me on the Kappelbrucke (Chapel Bridge). Note the Medieval artwork at the top.
Chapel Bridge from the side. Love the mossy shingles.
Fresh off the train and ready to explore the city!
Cross the Chapel Bridge and you'll head into Lucerne's Old Town where the buildings look like they sprang to life from a German fairytale, complete with wooden shutters and tile roofs. The maze of unique structures and winding alleys are a marvel from the outside alone, but you get to enter these archaic buildings because most of them now house restaurants, hotels, shops, and bars. Lovely statues oversee cobblestone squares, serene stopping points that are set to a backdrop of the splashy bubbling of ancient fountains. If all you did was wander the Old Town in Lucerne, stopping to take in the architecture and art, and perhaps to warm up with some roasted chestnuts, you'd most certainly have a lovely day.
View from one of the Mussegwall towers.
I discovered my love of roasted chestnuts. YUM.
One of the squares in Old Town Lucerne.
Love my stilettos, but this is not a city for heels. Flats are best for cobblestone streets.
Mugging in front of the Mussegwall.
Scenic views from one of the Musegwall towers.
Ryan and I happen to love getting lost in an ancient city's labrynth of lanes, but we also like to go in with a bit of a plan. After some research, we knew we wanted to hit up a couple of places, including a Swiss jewelry shop, a great place for a cocktail, and a locals only dinner house.
Here's the scoop on Lucerne.
Where to Shop: By Olga Ribler Jewelry
This local jeweler was founded in 1993 by the designer donning the same name. Ribler's style is somewhat simple with clean lines. Nothing heavy or ornate. Think Argento Vivo meets Monica Vinader. Ribler incoporates silver, rose gold, and gold with semi-precious stones. Her flagship store in Lucerne became so popular that she expanded to Zurich and Basel. I selected a fabulous pair of edgy laser cut gold starbust earrings that are as chic as they are fun, as well as a pair of understated gold stud pearls. But, truth be told, I could have come home with so many more pieces if Ryan hadn't been anxious to get to our cocktail stop. Good thing there's a website!
Fairly priced posts in gold and rose gold.
Love how she mixes gemstones with metals.
On point strand stacking.
Cocktails with a View: Chateau Gutsch
This picturesque hotel is the Sleeping Beauty Castle come to life. Built in 1888 by architect Emil Vogt as a private residence, the castle was inspired by Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria, and was a true attempt to bring a sense of fairytale to his family life. Today, it is a boutique hotel atop a mountain, overlooking all of Lucerne. Getting there is tricky by foot, but you could hire a car to take you up the winding road to the top of the mountain. But, what's more fun is taking the Gutsch Bahn, which is Chateau Gutsch's private little railcar that trolleys you up the mountain in only a few moments. Like an elevator at a steep diagonal angle, as you glide up the mountainside in the car, you'll see some of the best views of the city. The hotel bar is swanky and opulent with velvet covered lounges and gilted mirrors, but it also has a touch of whimsy, like the castle itself, for in the center of the bar sits a toast-your-own-marshmallow station. The bartenders were incredibly knowledgeable and skilled. Known for their Old Fashioned, Ryan did not buck tradition and went for their mainstay. I opted for the Bollinger champagne which they serve in a chilled champagne flute to help retain the bubbles and flavor. The bar opens at 4 pm, and by 4:30 the initially empty bar was akin to the drinks served there... filled to the brim. And to top it off, our fabulous bartenders let us play DJ for the evening. And so we sat, atop the best bar in the city, watching the blinking lights of Lucerne below, swaying and sipping to the beat of Lord Huron. It doesn't get any better.
A view of Chateau Gutsch from the Mussegwall.
The Gutsch Bahn is the best way to reach the Chateau. It's like a private trolley!
View from halfway up the Gutsch Bahn.
View from the grounds of Chateau Gutsch. Here, I am standing right outside the bar.
Cocktail hour!
Airy bubbles for a sweeping view of the city.
Not just for kids: Chateau Gutsch's bar features a grown up Marshmallow toasting station!
Yes, we ordered fries. Because sometimes you need a piece of home when you're abroad.
Dinner in Old Town: Mill'Feuille
Mill'Feuille is seated right on the water in Old Town Lucerne. In fact, you feel like you're on a houseboat in Amsterdam, rather than at a chic restaurant overlooking the River Ruess. Though the surrounding setting is ancient, once inside the doors of the restaurant, you are taken by its minimalistic and modern warmth. Candles and sleek light fixtures create that perfect romantic glow. We were seated at a table in the back corner of the restaurant, nestled between two large windows overlooking the river. The service was attentive, but we were not rushed. Their menu is mostly plant based, though they do have fish and meat options. Ryan was game for sharing vegan dishes, so we ordered several that the server recommended and shared. Our favorites were the herbed falafel with smoky tomato sauce, the apple cabbage stew with roasted chestnuts, the house salad with a creamy cress dressing, and the Momos, which was the real winner of the evening. These red lentil dahl filled dumplings were served with sauteed kale and had the most amazing flavor and texture. Like a Greek ravioli meets puff pastry. It was the perfect ending to our perfect day in Lucerne.
Apple cabbage stew with roasted chestnuts. Love that punchy purple color!
Falafel with smoky tomato sauce.
Green salad with creamy cress dressing.
Momos are not a no-no. This was one of our favorite meals of the entire trip.
Old Town Lucerne (Luzern)
Lucerne, Switzerland is truly one of Europe's hidden gems. Located only an hour's train ride from Zurich, it is easily accessible, but you feel like you're far away in the Swiss Alps. Like the day we spent in Salzburg last year, Lucerne is a bit like walking into a snowglobe come to life. As you step outside the train station and that crisp cold air shocks your lungs, because the cold just feels colder in Europe, you stop to catch your breath, not at the shocking chill, but at the gorgeous city that lay before you. In the foreground you'll see a series of bridges spanning the river Ruess, one of which is Lucerne's famous Kappelbrucke, literally translated to Chapel Bridge, which is the oldest wood covered bridge in Europe, and the world's oldest surviving truss bridge dating all the way back to 1330. (Quick shout out to Mr. Rice, my 6th grade teacher, and the reason why I know what a "truss bridge" is!) In the background you'll see the tallest of the nine towers that are part of the famous Musegg Wall, a literal wall that surrounded the city preserved from the 14th Century.
Me on the Kappelbrucke (Chapel Bridge). Note the Medieval artwork at the top.
Chapel Bridge from the side. Love the mossy shingles.
Fresh off the train and ready to explore the city!
Cross the Chapel Bridge and you'll head into Lucerne's Old Town where the buildings look like they sprang to life from a German fairytale, complete with wooden shutters and tile roofs. The maze of unique structures and winding alleys are a marvel from the outside alone, but you get to enter these archaic buildings because most of them now house restaurants, hotels, shops, and bars. Lovely statues oversee cobblestone squares, serene stopping points that are set to a backdrop of the splashy bubbling of ancient fountains. If all you did was wander the Old Town in Lucerne, stopping to take in the architecture and art, and perhaps to warm up with some roasted chestnuts, you'd most certainly have a lovely day.
View from one of the Mussegwall towers.
I discovered my love of roasted chestnuts. YUM.
One of the squares in Old Town Lucerne.
Love my stilettos, but this is not a city for heels. Flats are best for cobblestone streets.
Mugging in front of the Mussegwall.
Scenic views from one of the Musegwall towers.
Ryan and I happen to love getting lost in an ancient city's labrynth of lanes, but we also like to go in with a bit of a plan. After some research, we knew we wanted to hit up a couple of places, including a Swiss jewelry shop, a great place for a cocktail, and a locals only dinner house.
Here's the scoop on Lucerne.
Where to Shop: By Olga Ribler Jewelry
This local jeweler was founded in 1993 by the designer donning the same name. Ribler's style is somewhat simple with clean lines. Nothing heavy or ornate. Think Argento Vivo meets Monica Vinader. Ribler incoporates silver, rose gold, and gold with semi-precious stones. Her flagship store in Lucerne became so popular that she expanded to Zurich and Basel. I selected a fabulous pair of edgy laser cut gold starbust earrings that are as chic as they are fun, as well as a pair of understated gold stud pearls. But, truth be told, I could have come home with so many more pieces if Ryan hadn't been anxious to get to our cocktail stop. Good thing there's a website!
Fairly priced posts in gold and rose gold.
Love how she mixes gemstones with metals.
On point strand stacking.
Cocktails with a View: Chateau Gutsch
This picturesque hotel is the Sleeping Beauty Castle come to life. Built in 1888 by architect Emil Vogt as a private residence, the castle was inspired by Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria, and was a true attempt to bring a sense of fairytale to his family life. Today, it is a boutique hotel atop a mountain, overlooking all of Lucerne. Getting there is tricky by foot, but you could hire a car to take you up the winding road to the top of the mountain. But, what's more fun is taking the Gutsch Bahn, which is Chateau Gutsch's private little railcar that trolleys you up the mountain in only a few moments. Like an elevator at a steep diagonal angle, as you glide up the mountainside in the car, you'll see some of the best views of the city. The hotel bar is swanky and opulent with velvet covered lounges and gilted mirrors, but it also has a touch of whimsy, like the castle itself, for in the center of the bar sits a toast-your-own-marshmallow station. The bartenders were incredibly knowledgeable and skilled. Known for their Old Fashioned, Ryan did not buck tradition and went for their mainstay. I opted for the Bollinger champagne which they serve in a chilled champagne flute to help retain the bubbles and flavor. The bar opens at 4 pm, and by 4:30 the initially empty bar was akin to the drinks served there... filled to the brim. And to top it off, our fabulous bartenders let us play DJ for the evening. And so we sat, atop the best bar in the city, watching the blinking lights of Lucerne below, swaying and sipping to the beat of Lord Huron. It doesn't get any better.
A view of Chateau Gutsch from the Mussegwall.
The Gutsch Bahn is the best way to reach the Chateau. It's like a private trolley!
View from halfway up the Gutsch Bahn.
View from the grounds of Chateau Gutsch. Here, I am standing right outside the bar.
Cocktail hour!
Airy bubbles for a sweeping view of the city.
Not just for kids: Chateau Gutsch's bar features a grown up Marshmallow toasting station!
Yes, we ordered fries. Because sometimes you need a piece of home when you're abroad.
Dinner in Old Town: Mill'Feuille
Mill'Feuille is seated right on the water in Old Town Lucerne. In fact, you feel like you're on a houseboat in Amsterdam, rather than at a chic restaurant overlooking the River Ruess. Though the surrounding setting is ancient, once inside the doors of the restaurant, you are taken by its minimalistic and modern warmth. Candles and sleek light fixtures create that perfect romantic glow. We were seated at a table in the back corner of the restaurant, nestled between two large windows overlooking the river. The service was attentive, but we were not rushed. Their menu is mostly plant based, though they do have fish and meat options. Ryan was game for sharing vegan dishes, so we ordered several that the server recommended and shared. Our favorites were the herbed falafel with smoky tomato sauce, the apple cabbage stew with roasted chestnuts, the house salad with a creamy cress dressing, and the Momos, which was the real winner of the evening. These red lentil dahl filled dumplings were served with sauteed kale and had the most amazing flavor and texture. Like a Greek ravioli meets puff pastry. It was the perfect ending to our perfect day in Lucerne.
Apple cabbage stew with roasted chestnuts. Love that punchy purple color!
Falafel with smoky tomato sauce.
Green salad with creamy cress dressing.
Momos are not a no-no. This was one of our favorite meals of the entire trip.
