Berlin is a bustling, busy metropolis and the capital of
Germany. Steeped in a tumultuous history, the city has a lot to offer
history-wise, but it is also a modern, artsy city with a great culinary scene
(see this post).
Here are a few recommendations should
you travel to Berlin. We didn't even pretend that we would be able to hit all
the spots in only four days, especially given that the first day and a half
were a pretty rough transition due to the time change. But, the activiites we
did enjoy were pretty great and we look forward to our next visit to Berlin.
This was one of the most moving experiences of our time in Germany. Better than visiting an actual museum, this concrete memorial is located in the heart of Berlin and is an awe-inspiring place for contemplation, remembrance, and warning. The memorial opened in 2005 and was designed by famed New York architect, Peter Eisenman. Covering 19,000 square meters are nearly 3,000 concrete slabs of different heights. The entire memorial is built on a slope, so there’s a wave-like arc to the stone slabs no matter where you stand. And, the uniformity of the concrete gives you a sense of disorientation once you’re inside, walking amongst what seem like tombs. I think part of the artistry of the monument is the destabilizing sense you experience as you walk amongst the somber gray where everything that meets the eye is sameness, but also bleakness, a sensation I assume is intentional to remind how the Jews were reduced to numbers and dehumanized throughout WWII. Open at all hours, this is an important stop for anyone who happens to be in Berlin and it’s not to be missed. One important note if you plan a trip, visitors are not allowed to stand on or climb atop the concrete slabs as it is a sign of disrespect. A number of tourists who were visiting while we were there didn’t seem to get that memo, and they also couldn’t help but to use their selfie sticks and take a lot of smiling photos. Photography is allowed and encouraged, but I urge you to think about the purpose of the monument and to choose framing and posing that reflects that sentiment.
If you have yet to experience the
Christmas Markets that spring up all across Europe from mid-November until
early January, you should try to make a visit to one of the many cities
boasting such markets during the holidays. Visiting a Christmas Market is one
of our favorite winter travel experiences in any city, and we have been to
many, frequenting markets in Munich, Zurich, Salzberg, Lucerne, Prague, Paris, Baden
Baden, Strasbourg, and now Berlin. It is likely that you will find a market in
Berlin no matter where you are staying as there are several Christmas Markets
across the city, including a famous one located in front of the Charlottenberg
Palace. The one we visited was the Gendarmenmarkt which is seated in a
beautiful square between Französischer Dom
and Deutscher Dom. Though they charge 1 euro for admission, the money
goes to a local charity and helps to keep the crowds down a bit. Aside from
yummy (and cheap) treats like local craft beers and freshly fried paprika
potato chips, you can also find beautiful, locally crafted jewelry and other
items that make for unique souvenirs. I picked up a lovely pair of pearl
earrings from a jeweler called Holle Marie Jewelry.
Ride.Bln (aka Ride Berlin) is a the SoulCycle of Germany. Two main
studios make it easy to catch a ride no matter where you’re staying. We visited
the Studio West a couple of times during our trip and took classes from Anja
and Hubert, both of whom were excellent. Anja kept us moving with big pushes
and great dance moves while Hubert made us laugh with his American music quotes
(“Listen to Usher! He says turn it up in da club!”). Both instructors brought
energy and fun, keeping us smiling as they challenged us with choreography,
power moves, and hills. Though the classes were taught mainly in German, we
were able to follow along and not only did we get a great workout, but it was
one of our most surprising high points from the trip. Ride.Bln makes it easy
for visitors to attend class. You can view their webpage in English, pay a
reasonable rate for single class visits, and arrive without anything but
yourself. They will have shoes ready for you and after your first ride, they
will even have your bike pre-set to your specifications. Ride.Bln is truly a concierge
service level cycle studio and we will definitely be back on our next trip!
Photo courtesy Ride.Bln
Named by the Western Allies using the NATO phonetic alphabet
(Alpha, Bravo, Charlie), Checkpoint Charlie was the best-known crossing point
between East and West Berlin during the Cold War. Located on the corner of
Friedrichstrasse and Zimmerstrasse, it is a reminder of the former border
crossing, and the barrier, checkpoint booth, flag, and sandbags are all based
on the original site. Though we found it to be crowded and less emotionally
impactful than the Holocaust Memorial, it was an important site to see and we
were glad we made it part of our route. We didn’t opt to pay to enter the
museum and made it a relatively quick stop, but we felt like the short time we
spent there was sufficient.
This 18th Century Neoclassical monument is an
impressive sight, night or day. It is one of the best known landmarks in all of
Germany. Built on the site of a former city gate that marked the start of the
road from Berlin to the town of Brandenburg an der Havel, it was often the site
of major historical events throughout Germany’s history and is considered a
symbol of the unity and peace that has come to modern Germany. Located in the
city center of Berlin within Mitte, at the junction of Unter den Linden and
Ebertstraße, immediately west of the Pariser Platz, and only a block south of
the Reichstag Building, which houses the German parliament, it is a busy
crossing point for tourists and locals alike. Though much of the Gate was
closed off for the New Year’s Eve festivities that would occur the night after
our visit, we were able to see the impressive gate from the grounds while also
enjoying what appeared to be a pop up techno music concert serving as a sound
check for the NYE stage.
Photo courtesy radseason.com
Opposite the Kaiser Willhelm Memorial Church, Bikini Berlin
(aka Bikinihaus) is a concept shopping mall that was named for the building’s style.
The “two-piece” architecture reminded the people of Berlin of a bare midriff in
a bikini, the daring swimwear fashion causing a stir at the time when it was
built in the 1950s. Bikinihaus is home to the world’s first concept shopping
mall. The “mall” is a compilation of curated boutiques and culinary offerings,
best known for the modular pop-up boxes, which can be rented temporarily,
giving well-known brands the opportunity to launch a new product on a smaller
scale and enabling aspiring young designers to present their creations to the
public for the first time. Though we didn’t purchase anything at Bikini Berlin,
aside from some oak milk lattes at a café on the bottom floor, it was a great
place to window shop and to get a sense of the current trends in German
fashion. The entire place felt simultaneously retro and modern at the same
time, as if it belongs in Palm Springs.