Exploring a new country is easily one of my favorite ways to spend my vacation time. This summer I had the treat of traveling to Portugal. We spent time on both the northern and southern parts of the country, splitting our time between Porto (which you can read about here), Lisbon, and Albufiera (which I have effectively decided to dub "SOPO" for Southern Portugal).
While Porto is a bit of a quiet wine enthusiast's delight, Lisbon is for the city girl. The capital of Portugal is exactly what you'd expect of a bustling city--a hub between Portugal and the rest of Europe, a multicutural melting pot, and a mecca of restaurants, shopping, and tourist attractions. It was a lovely city that reminded me of Prague in some ways, though with an almost tropical vibe thanks to the warm climate and plethora of palm trees.
We spent several days in the Algarve region in Albufiera where the only thing I can really speak to is the beach, because that's where we spent all of our time. No really, all of it. But that's pretty much why you travel to southern Portugal anyway!
Here are some highlights from our trip. There is definitely more to be explored than what we covered in our week and and a half in this region, but we got a great taste for the culture and region thanks to the wonderful experiences we had and the welcoming people we enountered. Portugal is unlike any place I have visited, so if it's not on your travel list yet, it should be!
Weekend Trip to Albufiera
As I mentioned, the stretch of days we spent in Albufiera were spent at the beach. We stayed at The Pine Cliffs Resort, a Marriott property that overlooks the Atlantic ocean. The views were breathtaking and the resort was like an oversized more modern version of what I imagine the camp would be like from Dirty Dancing. Lots of family-based activities and fun, so if you're looking for a quiet getaway as a couple, I would recommend staying somewhere else. What we did find was an amazing beach. The beach in front of The Pine Cliffs happened to be the sandiest and smoothest beach on the whole stretch of Albufiera, and we happily occupied a cabana for about 6 hours every day. The service in the cabana was excellent and the views were unbeatable. I read three books in as many days, happily stopping now and then for a dip in the ocean or to reapply sunscreen. This is what beach vacations are made for.
Lisbon
Where to Play
St. Jorge's Castle: Built by the moors in the mid-11th century, this castle sits atop a hill in Santa Maria Maior, a neighborhood adjacent to the heart of downtown Lisbon. Though you could certainly hike up to the castle, Lisbon is hilly... think the hilliest parts of San Francisco...and Ubers are cheap. We opted to Uber to the base where the streets become pedestrian only, and then hoof it from there. The castle grounds are beautiful. You can actually climb up pretty high on the castle and every viewpoint offers sweeping takes of the city below. Keep your eye out for the very tame peacocks that strut around the castle grounds! This is a must do for Lisbon.
Riverfront: Lisbon is situated along the northern bank of the river Tagus and the riverfront is a popular spot for locals and tourists alike. We enjoyed walking the stretch of the river, stopping now and then a cafe or restaurant, or to watch a street performer. You'll get a great view of the 25 de Abril Bridge from the riverfront, as well as some great photo ops!
Principe Real: This was our favorite neighborhood in Lisbon. Located just above the high-end shopping street, Avenue da Liberdade, this neighborhood is the perfect blend of old-meets-new. Tucked inside centuries-old stone buildings are modern eateries and shops. One of our favorite parts about Lisbon were the many bodega style bars. These kiosks were along every major street, and our favorite was on Rue Dom Pedro V in Principe Real. Located in a quaint little park called Jardim Antonio Nobre, the kiosk served Super Boc Beers for 3 euro and pasteis de nata for 2 euro. The park overlooks the city and is one of Lisbon's most well-known miradouros, or viewpoints. Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara and its lovely inexpensive beer is not to be missed. We had our own little happy hour as we took in the views of St. Jorge's castle and listened to live music from the park. It was one of our favorite moments from the Lisbon leg of our trip.
Fado Concert: Fado is the traditional music of the region. Most of the concerts are several hours long, though we lucked out and found Fado Inside The Box, a smaller venue located in the basement of Adega Machado, a restaurant in Principe Real. For a reasonable price, we had bottomless wine and appetizers while we enjoyed a show, and the whole affair took no more than 90 minutes (which is much more our speed, or attention span). I highly recommend this venue!
Shopping: As I mentioned earlier, the Avenue da Liberdade is the place for luxury shopping. Known as Lisbon's Rodeo Drive, this street is lined with all the greats--Gucci, Louis Vuitton, etc. But if you want to find goods that are made in Portugal, try out a local pottery store where they sell painted tiles and pottery that are trades of the area. We found one called By Nunes as we made our way down the waterfront from the castle. You can also Claus Porto, a local perfumerie and luxury bath product line. Their flagship multi-floor store is located in Porto, but we enjoyed browsing the smaller verision in Lisbon.
Where to Eat
Time Out Lisboa: All I have to say is, Chelsea Market, eat your heart out. Time Out Lisboa is the flagship of Time Out Magazine's brick and mortar food halls which have now cropped up in dozens of cities worldwide. Begun in 2014, Time Out Lisboa offers 24 restaurant stands, 8 bars, a dozen shops, and live music. Every vendor is local, and the food hall boasts that they offer the best that Lisbon has to offer in terms of food and beverage. We loved weaving through the crowds to view menus and sample plates. We recommend doing a full circle or two and then finding a spot to sit while one person from your party holds down the fort and the other(s) venture to pick up the eats. Otherwise, you'll find yourself wandering through what feels like a busy train terminal of people while trying to hold your flimsy plastic tray steady. When wine is involved, this is easier said than done! This was a people watcher's and food lover's paradise, and a great spot for folks with food allergies.
The Green Affair: Located on the north end of Lisbon in a more residential neighborhood, far from the beaten tourist path, The Green Affair is a hidden gem that we never would have discovered had it not been for the concierge at our hotel. And let me tell you, this place was a find. The service was excellent and genuine as the workers seemed to genuinely enjoy being in the restaurant and were honest about what they loved on the menu. The ambiance was romantic and cozy, but still felt upscale. We enjoyed a bottle of wine, appetizers, entrees, and two desserts, all for a fraction of what we would have paid in Seattle. Everything on the menu is vegan, so you get all of the flavor with none of the guilt. This was our favorite meal in Lisbon.
Where to Stay
We opted to stay at Tivoli Avenida Liberdade hotel. Located in central Lisbon on the best shopping street in the city, Tivoli Avenida Liberdade is old school charm and glam. The two-story lobby is grand and inviting, filled with plush sofas and settees where you can cozy up with your partner and enjoy a nightcap or an afternoon glass of champagne. Our room looked out on the Liberdade Avenue and we were lucky enough to snag a room with a high floor above the tree line. Our favorite part of the hotel stay was our afternoon spent by the pool. Set behind the hotel and away from the street noise, the circular pool is a scenic, serene escape from downtown Lisbon. Breakfast was included with our stay which was also top notch. I must have sipped three almond milk lattes every morning. If we return to Lisbon, we will certainly stay here again, not just for the location and amenities, but also for the exceptional service.
While Porto is a bit of a quiet wine enthusiast's delight, Lisbon is for the city girl. The capital of Portugal is exactly what you'd expect of a bustling city--a hub between Portugal and the rest of Europe, a multicutural melting pot, and a mecca of restaurants, shopping, and tourist attractions. It was a lovely city that reminded me of Prague in some ways, though with an almost tropical vibe thanks to the warm climate and plethora of palm trees.
We spent several days in the Algarve region in Albufiera where the only thing I can really speak to is the beach, because that's where we spent all of our time. No really, all of it. But that's pretty much why you travel to southern Portugal anyway!
Here are some highlights from our trip. There is definitely more to be explored than what we covered in our week and and a half in this region, but we got a great taste for the culture and region thanks to the wonderful experiences we had and the welcoming people we enountered. Portugal is unlike any place I have visited, so if it's not on your travel list yet, it should be!
Weekend Trip to Albufiera
As I mentioned, the stretch of days we spent in Albufiera were spent at the beach. We stayed at The Pine Cliffs Resort, a Marriott property that overlooks the Atlantic ocean. The views were breathtaking and the resort was like an oversized more modern version of what I imagine the camp would be like from Dirty Dancing. Lots of family-based activities and fun, so if you're looking for a quiet getaway as a couple, I would recommend staying somewhere else. What we did find was an amazing beach. The beach in front of The Pine Cliffs happened to be the sandiest and smoothest beach on the whole stretch of Albufiera, and we happily occupied a cabana for about 6 hours every day. The service in the cabana was excellent and the views were unbeatable. I read three books in as many days, happily stopping now and then for a dip in the ocean or to reapply sunscreen. This is what beach vacations are made for.
Lisbon
Where to Play
St. Jorge's Castle: Built by the moors in the mid-11th century, this castle sits atop a hill in Santa Maria Maior, a neighborhood adjacent to the heart of downtown Lisbon. Though you could certainly hike up to the castle, Lisbon is hilly... think the hilliest parts of San Francisco...and Ubers are cheap. We opted to Uber to the base where the streets become pedestrian only, and then hoof it from there. The castle grounds are beautiful. You can actually climb up pretty high on the castle and every viewpoint offers sweeping takes of the city below. Keep your eye out for the very tame peacocks that strut around the castle grounds! This is a must do for Lisbon.
Riverfront: Lisbon is situated along the northern bank of the river Tagus and the riverfront is a popular spot for locals and tourists alike. We enjoyed walking the stretch of the river, stopping now and then a cafe or restaurant, or to watch a street performer. You'll get a great view of the 25 de Abril Bridge from the riverfront, as well as some great photo ops!
Principe Real: This was our favorite neighborhood in Lisbon. Located just above the high-end shopping street, Avenue da Liberdade, this neighborhood is the perfect blend of old-meets-new. Tucked inside centuries-old stone buildings are modern eateries and shops. One of our favorite parts about Lisbon were the many bodega style bars. These kiosks were along every major street, and our favorite was on Rue Dom Pedro V in Principe Real. Located in a quaint little park called Jardim Antonio Nobre, the kiosk served Super Boc Beers for 3 euro and pasteis de nata for 2 euro. The park overlooks the city and is one of Lisbon's most well-known miradouros, or viewpoints. Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara and its lovely inexpensive beer is not to be missed. We had our own little happy hour as we took in the views of St. Jorge's castle and listened to live music from the park. It was one of our favorite moments from the Lisbon leg of our trip.
Fado Concert: Fado is the traditional music of the region. Most of the concerts are several hours long, though we lucked out and found Fado Inside The Box, a smaller venue located in the basement of Adega Machado, a restaurant in Principe Real. For a reasonable price, we had bottomless wine and appetizers while we enjoyed a show, and the whole affair took no more than 90 minutes (which is much more our speed, or attention span). I highly recommend this venue!
Shopping: As I mentioned earlier, the Avenue da Liberdade is the place for luxury shopping. Known as Lisbon's Rodeo Drive, this street is lined with all the greats--Gucci, Louis Vuitton, etc. But if you want to find goods that are made in Portugal, try out a local pottery store where they sell painted tiles and pottery that are trades of the area. We found one called By Nunes as we made our way down the waterfront from the castle. You can also Claus Porto, a local perfumerie and luxury bath product line. Their flagship multi-floor store is located in Porto, but we enjoyed browsing the smaller verision in Lisbon.
Where to Eat
Time Out Lisboa: All I have to say is, Chelsea Market, eat your heart out. Time Out Lisboa is the flagship of Time Out Magazine's brick and mortar food halls which have now cropped up in dozens of cities worldwide. Begun in 2014, Time Out Lisboa offers 24 restaurant stands, 8 bars, a dozen shops, and live music. Every vendor is local, and the food hall boasts that they offer the best that Lisbon has to offer in terms of food and beverage. We loved weaving through the crowds to view menus and sample plates. We recommend doing a full circle or two and then finding a spot to sit while one person from your party holds down the fort and the other(s) venture to pick up the eats. Otherwise, you'll find yourself wandering through what feels like a busy train terminal of people while trying to hold your flimsy plastic tray steady. When wine is involved, this is easier said than done! This was a people watcher's and food lover's paradise, and a great spot for folks with food allergies.
The Green Affair: Located on the north end of Lisbon in a more residential neighborhood, far from the beaten tourist path, The Green Affair is a hidden gem that we never would have discovered had it not been for the concierge at our hotel. And let me tell you, this place was a find. The service was excellent and genuine as the workers seemed to genuinely enjoy being in the restaurant and were honest about what they loved on the menu. The ambiance was romantic and cozy, but still felt upscale. We enjoyed a bottle of wine, appetizers, entrees, and two desserts, all for a fraction of what we would have paid in Seattle. Everything on the menu is vegan, so you get all of the flavor with none of the guilt. This was our favorite meal in Lisbon.
Where to Stay
We opted to stay at Tivoli Avenida Liberdade hotel. Located in central Lisbon on the best shopping street in the city, Tivoli Avenida Liberdade is old school charm and glam. The two-story lobby is grand and inviting, filled with plush sofas and settees where you can cozy up with your partner and enjoy a nightcap or an afternoon glass of champagne. Our room looked out on the Liberdade Avenue and we were lucky enough to snag a room with a high floor above the tree line. Our favorite part of the hotel stay was our afternoon spent by the pool. Set behind the hotel and away from the street noise, the circular pool is a scenic, serene escape from downtown Lisbon. Breakfast was included with our stay which was also top notch. I must have sipped three almond milk lattes every morning. If we return to Lisbon, we will certainly stay here again, not just for the location and amenities, but also for the exceptional service.
